Material archive · Robe Shop
Choosing your coat length
Cut, proportion and room to move
Choose a coat for the way you move. Its length, shoulders and ease should work with the clothing underneath, whether you are walking or sitting.
Start with what you will wear underneath
Assess a coat over a typical outfit: a tailored jacket, a suit or knitwear. That layer is part of the fit. A coat that feels comfortable over a light top has not yet answered how it will feel with your winter wardrobe.
Consider where you will wear it most: on walks, during longer journeys or over formal clothing. This gives your choice of silhouette a practical starting point.
Three starting points for length
- Hip to thigh length
- A starting point for a shorter silhouette. Look at how the hem relates to the clothing beneath. Our shorter model directions are the Peacoat (Caban) and Parka.
- Knee length
- Compare this length when sitting and climbing stairs. Look at the actual position of the hem on your body.
- Calf length
- For a longer, continuous line. Take a few larger steps and check the hem’s clearance from the ground with your intended shoes.
Terms such as “knee length” are guides. The useful measure is the length on you, rather than one fixed measurement for everyone.
Six shapes to consider
- Ulster: broad lapels and a double-breasted front.
- Wrap coat: a shawl collar and tie belt.
- Chesterfield: a clean, single-breasted front with a concealed placket.
- Parka: a hood and two-way zip.
- Peacoat: a short double-breasted shape with a broad collar.
- Cape: a shoulder yoke, back pleat and arm openings.
First compare the shape with your wardrobe. Then refine the length and the amount of room you want.
Four movements to check at a fitting
- Fasten: Wear the coat as intended. Notice any pulling at the chest, hips or fastening.
- Reach: Move your arms forward as you would during the day. Pay attention to your back, shoulders and upper arms.
- Walk: Take ordinary and longer steps. The hem should work with your stride.
- Sit: Assess the coat when sitting and standing up. Depending on the model, compare its open and fastened positions.
No single allowance can describe the right ease for every shape and wardrobe. Note where you want more room and where you prefer the line to sit closer to the body.
Prepare your selection
A model direction, preferred length and intended outfit provide a clear brief. Compare the shapes in our coat collection. If you are considering two lengths, bring both into the conversation.