Back to the cashmere collection

Manufaktur Bavaria · A personal commission

Vicuña.
From the Andes to you.

A rare fibre. A coat for one person. Your personal commission takes shape at our atelier in Landshut, Bavaria.

A group of vicuñas in warm light, with mountains in the background.
Vicuñas in their natural habitat. Photograph: Mattapia 63

01 · The origin

A fibre that takes its time.

Vicuñas live wild in the South American highlands. During the chaccu, the animals are gathered, shorn alive and released. Local communities and wildlife protection shape this tradition.

Around 200 gramsOf fibre per animal, every three years — a scale reported by the Ayacucho agricultural authority. Yield and shearing intervals vary with region and practice. Read the source.

For your coat, the documented origin of the selected cloth matters. We verify it with the cloth house before your wish becomes a commission.

02 · 数字里的纤维

骆马绒的珍贵，
可以被测量。

细度、产量、产地——由科研机构、主管部门与纤维行业组织测得。并列羊绒与美利奴羊毛，便于您比较。

  • 12.7 微米成年骆马的平均纤维细度，测于秘鲁库斯科地区1
  • 约 165 克每只骆马每次剪毛所得的毛被——在阿亚库乔，每只骆马约每三年剪毛一次1, 2
  • 约 7 吨每年从南美出口的骆马绒纤维3
骆马绒羊绒美利奴羊毛
纤维细度12.7 微米（成年骆马）1最高 19 微米；最佳品质约 14 微米4, 5平均约 19 微米；超细品质约 16 微米起6, 7
每只动物每次剪毛约 165 克毛被，约每三年一次1, 2每年约 150 克绒毛5每次剪毛约 4.2 公斤净毛6
每年南美年出口约 7 吨3纯羊绒约 6,500 吨（估算）5全部羊毛约 210 万吨（原毛）7
产地秘鲁、玻利维亚、阿根廷、智利、厄瓜多尔8主要为中国与蒙古5澳大利亚（约占全球羊毛的四分之一）、中国、新西兰7

每米超过两只骆马我们的面料每延米重 420 克。一次剪毛约得 165 克毛被，且为去除粗毛之前的重量。您的大衣需要数米面料。9, 1

来源

  1. Pacheco et al. 2019 — 纤维细度与毛被重量，库斯科地区（302 份样本、633 张毛被）
  2. Dirección Regional Agraria Ayacucho, 18 Sep 2023 — 每只骆马约 200 克纤维，每三年一次
  3. Mecardo (A. Woods), 28 May 2024 — 年出口约 7 吨；原纤维价格约为优质羊绒的三倍
  4. Wool Products Labeling Act, 15 U.S.C. § 68b(a)(6) — 羊绒：平均纤维直径不超过 19 微米
  5. DNFI, Cashmere (data: FAO 2009, DNFI 2020) — 每只每年约 150 克绒毛；最佳品质 14 微米；纯羊绒 6,500 吨；中国、蒙古
  6. NSW Department of Primary Industries — 美利奴羊，59 个品系平均：19.0 微米，4.2 公斤净毛
  7. DNFI, Wool (data: IWTO 2016, IWTO+DNFI 2021) — 超细美利奴 16 微米起；原毛 210 万吨；澳大利亚近 25%
  8. Regulation (EU) 2026/1383, Annex — 骆马：秘鲁、玻利维亚、阿根廷、智利、厄瓜多尔的种群；标识“VICUÑA [原产国]”
  9. Scabal, fabric catalogue (bunch C1801 “Pure Vicuna”) — 100% 骆马绒，每延米 420/520 克，斜纹，色纱染色，布边
Collar and horn buttons of the Ulster in warm golden brown, style visualisation.

03 · 面料

Scabal Pure Vicuna.
A quiet lustre.

100% vicuña from Peru, woven in a twill, 420 or 520 grams per running metre — in light brown, black and dark blue. The selvedge reads “Scabal · 100% Pure Vicuna · Vicuna fibres from Peru”. We select the actual cloth with you, in the hand.

from $31,000Your vicuña coat: knee length, 420 g, single-breasted, in black or dark blue, silk-lined. The cloth comes from a limited lot; your proposal confirms the length available. Not available for delivery to California.

What your price includes

  • The clothScabal Pure Vicuna, 100% vicuña from Peru — the selvedge says so.
  • Your measureIn person in Landshut, or by video with Yeşim Küçükay.
  • The toileA cotton fitting garment over your jacket. No vicuña is cut until the toile fits.
  • The makingFull silk lining and horn buttons, made by hand in our atelier in Landshut.
  • 您的溯源档案您大衣的面料凭证、布边照片与产地证明——凭衬里上的编号查阅。

Your price follows the cloth weight, the cut and the length.

Further vicuña qualities, including Loro Piana, on request.

04 · 旅程

从安第斯山脉的一次剪毛，
到您身边。

  1. 安第斯山脉

    Chaccu 围捕剪毛

    骆马野生于海拔 3,200 米至近 5,000 米的普纳高原。社区将它们聚拢，活体剪毛后放归；在秘鲁，每一次 chaccu 均由大区政府批准并监督。10, 11

  2. 秘鲁

    纤维

    细软的底绒与粗硬的针毛被分离开来，之后才进入纺纱。

  3. Scabal

    面料

    Scabal Pure Vicuna，系列 C1801：斜纹织造，色纱染色，每延米 420 克或 520 克。布边织有“* SCABAL * 100% PURE VICUNA * VICUNA FIBRES FROM PERU”字样。9

  4. 兰茨胡特

    量体、坯布样衣、裁剪

    我们在兰茨胡特当面为您量体，或由 Yeşim Küçükay 通过视频完成。随后是坯布样衣——一件棉质试穿样衣。坯布样衣合身之前，我们不会裁剪任何骆马绒。之后，我们在工坊中为您制作大衣，全真丝衬里，配牛角扣。

  5. 为您

    交付

    可在兰茨胡特当面交付，或按与您商定的方式送达。随大衣一同交付的，还有它的溯源档案。

来源

  1. IUCN SSC South American Camelid Specialist Group (GECS) — 分布于海拔 3,200 至近 5,000 米；20 世纪中叶约 1 万只；2008 年起“无危”
  2. SPDA / Actualidad Ambiental, 5 Apr 2024 — 秘鲁：208,899 只骆马（2012 年普查），67,821 只（1994 年）；chaccu 由大区政府批准

05 · 兰茨胡特的工坊

One person.
A personal path to fit.

Our atelier makes the robes of every Unified Patent Court judge, at first instance and on appeal. Each robe is individually made and personalised. The same hands accompany your coat, with the care and precision of our house.

  1. Measure

    In person in Landshut, or from home with our guidance by video.

  2. Toile

    A cotton fitting garment establishes posture, length and freedom of movement.

  3. Fitting

    Only after checking the fit do we cut the chosen cloth. Yeşim accompanies the making through to handover.

Yeşim Küçükay
Yeşim Küçükay accompanies your commission.

06 · 您的溯源档案

我们讲述的，
都有凭据。

我们为每一件骆马绒大衣单独建立一份档案，记录面料从何而来、大衣如何制成。

  • 面料凭证您这段面料的送货单与发票，不含价格。
  • 布边在裁剪之前，于您的那段面料上拍摄。
  • 产地证明该面料合法来源的证明。
  • 您的坯布样衣试穿记录：尺寸、修改与日期。
  • 制作过程来自我们工坊的照片，从裁剪直至交付。
  • 欧盟以外的交付您的大衣为此所需的再出口证明书。

衬里上的标签印有您大衣的编号。凭此编号即可查阅您的档案：交付时提供纸质版，线上版仅供您本人查看。

纸质档案属于这件大衣——即便有一天它被传承下去。

Before your commission.

How do we choose the cloth?

We discuss your wishes and show you the available qualities. A personal swatch, its composition and documented origin are part of that choice.

How do I care for my coat?

Care depends on the actual cloth, lining and construction. Your coat comes with its own care guidance; cleaning should be discussed with a specialist experienced in that quality.

What does a vicuña coat cost?

From $31,000 for the single-breasted, knee-length coat in 420 g. Your proposal states the price of your coat — cloth weight, cut and length — the lead time, and the length of cloth available from the limited lot. Payment in full with your commission. We cannot deliver vicuña to California.

读懂骆马绒——十个回答，每个数字均附来源。 阅读指南 →

Your personal coat

A cut.
For your life.

Cut, length, lining and details are considered around you. Your proposal states the price of your coat, from $31,000.

Discuss your vicuña coatContact the atelier
Style visualisation of a double-breasted Ulster in golden brown with eight horn buttons.

Photograph: Mattapia 63, Grupo familiar territorial · CC BY 4.0 · resized for the web.